Live from Egypt

Despite internet closures (!!) people in Egypt are still getting through to keep the world updated on the latest around the country.

Check out the BBC's live feed --updated almost every minute-- of what's happening on the streets.
And Al Jazeera English has a live video feed here.

Updated to quote:

1. 1759: The BBC's Yolande Knell has been out on the streets of Cairo, where she describes people running, their eyes streaming as a result of the teargas hanging over the city. "We will never stop until this government goes," yelled one elderly man. Ordinary Egyptians appear to be losing their fear of direct confrontation with the security forces, says our correspondent. Read Yolande's eyewitness report here.

Even better:

1749: AP reporter Ashraf Sweilim reports that some Bedouins in Sinai are besieging the Sheikh Zoueid police station, demanding members of the security forces inside to surrender.

And:

1. 1743: Middle East analyst Roger Hardy writes on the BBC News website:"If the Egyptian unrest turns into an Egyptian revolution, the implications for the Arab world - and for Western policy in the Middle East - will be immense. Egypt matters, in a way that tiny Tunisia - key catalyst that it has been in the current wave of protest - does not. It matters because its destiny affects, in a range of ways, not only Arab interests but Israeli, Iranian and Western interests, too."

Fashion Friday: Aennis Eunis gets his kicks

Trained in Italy, NY and Jordan, architect-cum-cordwainer Anas Younis Shanaah designs shoes inspired by the beauty of Arabic calligraphy and mosaics under his semi-eponymous line Aennis Eunis. They're sensual enough to make Carrie Bradshaw sqeal (and seriously go into debt) .

With two collections so far, 'Calligraphy' and 'Arabesque', the designer is branching out into hosiery, apparel and accessories soon.

 You can find them at Bloomingdales...in Dubai. In case you needed an excuse to visit the Emirates, here's your reason. Just save your pennies.

More designs at Aennis Eunis.

Lalla Links: Music, Protest and Art

Great series of short, intimate "take-away" concert films by some of the greatest artists worldwide, created by Vincent Moon. Here's part 1 with Enrique Morente.


Take Away Show #116 _ ENRIQUE MORENTE (part 1) from Vincent Moon / Petites Planetes on Vimeo.


The latest Boston Globe Big Picture slideshow: 'Protests spread in the Mid East'

Nice roundup of top Middle Eastern artists and designers on The Polyglot

Paris Underground

You knew about the catacombs and the tunnels, but what about the art, clubs and diving holes of Paris' underground city?

Nice article and interesting slideshow on National Geographic. This image mentions the fish pond, dating from the 1860s, beneath the Opera Garnier.

Power of the Pen

In the weeks to come in Tunisia, it will be interesting to watch not only how their society develops but also what the ousting of Ben Ali and his regime's strict censorship of the press and speech will mean for the press of that country -- and what effect, if any, it has for the press around the region.

The BBC ran a great article and video about the "night and day" change on Habib Bourguiba Avenue ("the 'Fleet Street' of Tunis") after journalists kicked out their managing editors (many of whom were a part of the ex-prez's wife's Trabulsi clan, I remember reading awhile ago) and are finally able to write and report what they want.

Morocco's popular magazine Telquel, which has also been burdened with an ongoing struggle with state censorship and fines, (even for relatively neutral, even positive stories) is running this cover this week:

'Yes, it is possible'

What the Jasmine Revolution does for society and democracy in the Middle East may hopefully have a similar effect for the freedom of the press as well. On garde les doigts croisées.

Hezarfen: animated short

Found this little fast-paced delight on Creative Roots earlier today. This short animated film is based on the  Turkish tale of Hezarfen, an historical Ottoman man to attempt to fly well before the days of the Wright Brothers. The story goes he took off from the famous Galata Tower of Istanbul in 1632 and with the help of the southwest wind, flew across the straits to land in Doğancılar square in Üsküdar, on the Asiatic side of the Queen of Cities.


Hezarfen from Hezarfen on Vimeo.

Love the score. I can only hope there's more to come from this team!

Thanks for the links! Man, people love this post...

I'm always astonished how popular some posts turn out to be. The surprise by far has been my often-linked-to post on Muammar Qaddafi's elite corps of female personal body guards. I first heard about it when I read about American filmmaker Rania Ajami's documentary 'Shadow of a Leader' the idea for which she explains, came about when “An uncle of mine once told me a story about Muammar Qaddafi, who arrived in Kuwait one day surrounded by these beautiful women in military uniforms. The Kuwaitis, he said, were confused. They didn’t know if they were going to be attacked or seduced! I always remembered that story.”  - Source

I've always been intrigued and occasionally bewildered by the Libyan dictator's sartorial tastes (I'd really REALLY like to interview his tailor; how would those patron-client conversations go? The humble tailor approaches the great leader with stupor and trembling, measuring tape and clothespins, the insignia of his profession, adorning his shoulders, and asks Qaddafi what he'd like. 'I'm looking for a rococo toga-cum-boubou. What do you have in a puce yellow?' ...Which must've resulted in this. (OK, I admit I kind of like it.) And I can only imaging the conversation that lead to this tie-dye monstrosity...)



From the Daily Mail



But his "Amazon" entourage was news to me. So I compiled a little post, and watched it blossom as various respectable news organizations linked to it over the years. The most recent of which, Slate.com, (the usual accompaniment to my morning coffee,) posted an "Explainer" article on the crude and bizarre joke (which I have heard around Moroccan cafe tables on more than one occasion) attributed to Qaddafi by way of that pinnacle of Italian manhood, Signor Silvio Berlusconi, who responds to the question Where did bunga bunga come from?:

"An aspiring [17-year-old] model and part-time belly dancer claims she witnessed sex orgies at the villa of Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi. Karima Keyek says Berlusconi referred to the parties as "bunga bunga" sex sessions and said he'd learned about them from Libyan President Muammar Qaddafi. The phrase has taken Italy by storm, but no one is quite sure whether Berlusconi made it up or if it's a legitimate Libyan phrase." - Brian Palmer, Slate 

I invite you to read the article to discover more, and thank you to Palmer for such the eye-popping answer and kindly linking to my old post.

 I'm genuinely curious to see Ms. Ajami's film, (described on IMDB as "investigat[ing] the phenomenon of Qaddafi's elite female bodyguard corps and the tensions these women embody: tensions between Islam, modernisation in a nomadic society, a militarist feminism and an urban dictatorship") and do think it is notable that Qaddafi has, despite the Bond-villainesque shock-factor, chosen to surround himself with all-female protection. The ladies look pretty sturdy to me, though that equates to any genuine gender equality for Libyan women, necessarily. But then, the only Libyans I've ever met were a few Libyan male students, so we're surely better off asking such questions of the women themselves (which I also hope is in Ajami's documentary).

For a more serious and hard-hitting commentary on the dynamic duo, try this article from the Daily Mail on unelected leaders and their eccentricities.

Meanwhile, I think I need to find a cubicle wall or something to hang this baby on:

-Source



Sinking into the Sands: Mark LeVine's editorial on Tunisia & the US

UC Irvine prof Mark LeVine's extended and articulate opinion essay from Al Jazeera English on the potential for a new dynamic for US foreign policy in the Middle East. 

Of note:

"Once Ben Ali had fled the country, the President did salute "brave and determined struggle for the universal rights", applauded "the courage and dignity of the Tunisian people", and called on the Tunisian government "to respect human rights, and to hold free and fair elections in the near future that reflect the true will and aspirations of the Tunisian people".

But unless there is a stick behind this call, there is every reason to believe, as so many Tunisians and other commentators worry, that the country's corrupt and still powerful elite will find a way to remain entrenched in power once the situation calms down. Indeed, Obama's call to "maintain calm" is counter productive. While violence is of course deplorable, the worst thing for Tunisians to do would be to remain calm, to tone down their protests and leave the streets.

Now is the time for Tunisians to ensure that the revolution that is just sprouting is not cut off or co-opted. The protests need to continue and even expand until the foundations of the regime are uprooted and other senior officials removed from power and sent into exile as Ben Ali has now been."

Insightful analysis from Hanane Harrath on Tunisia, Islamism and the Maghreb

In addition to my last post and the many editorials on what recent events in Tunisia may result in for other countries around the region, I'd like to highlight the comments of one Moroccan journalist which I find particularly insightful.

She has a particulaly striking point regarding islamism that I haven't seen covered in any other media so far.

Here are some excerpts, in translation, from an interview with Hanane Harrath, of the Moroccan diaspora magazine Le Courrier de l'Atlas, published on French television channel TV5's website:

Pourquoi le régime tunisien qui était si verrouillé, s'est-il effondré si soudainement, comme un château de cartes ?
 C’est vrai que la rapidité avec laquelle le régime de Ben Ali a plié bagage ne laisse pas de surprendre. Plusieurs facteurs ont peut-être concouru à précipiter la fin du régime. Premier facteur : le déplacement des émeutes de la périphérie au centre même du pouvoir, la capitale Tunis. Tant que le conflit restait confiné aux villes de province, le régime pouvait encore donner l’impression qu’il contrôlait la situation et pouvait tenter de calmer les choses par des mesures symboliques comme le limogeage du gouverneur de Sidi Bouzid, la ville où tout a commencé. Mais la contagion à Tunis a irréversiblement changé la donne.
Deuxième facteur : la ténacité des émeutiers. Ils n’ont rien lâché, durant près d’un mois : ils se sont montrés déterminés, malgré les morts qui se multipliaient, à aller jusqu’au bout. Troisième facteur : les déclarations de Ben Ali. Il n’a pas joué toutes ses cartes d’un coup, il a gardé les plus fortes pour la fin : l’organisation de législatives anticipées, son départ en 2014, la liberté d’expression. Mais ces annonces, surprenantes de la part d’un président qui n’avait jamais rien cédé, ne pouvaient signifier que deux choses : soit qu’il gagnait du temps, formulant des promesses dont il pourrait se dédire une fois le calme revenu auquel cas il n’était pas crédible et il fallait poursuivre la lutte. Soit cela signifiait qu’il était à ce point affaibli qu’il cédait volontiers sur des points forts, auquel cas il suffirait de poursuivre encore le mouvement un tout petit peu pour le faire flancher. Et c’est ce qui s’est passé.

Why did the Tunisian regime, which seemed so firmly entrenched, collapse so suddenly like a house of cards?

It's true that the speed with which the Ben Ali regime packed its bags is surprising. Several factors may have converged to precipitate the end of the regime. The first factor: the displacement of the riots from the periphery to the center of power, the capital Tunis. So long as the conflict remained confined to the provincial cities, the regime could still give the impression that it was controlling the situation and that it could try to calm things through symbolic measures like the dismissal of the governer of Sidi Bouzid, the city where things first began. But the contagion in Tunis irreversably changed the deal.
The second factor: The rioters' tenacity. They never let up, for nearly a month; they showed themselves to be determined, despite the deaths that multiplied, and went all the way.
Third factor: Ben Ali's declarations. He didn't play all his cards at the same time, and he kept the strongest for the end: organization of anticipated elections, his departure in 2014, freedom of speech. But these announcement, surprised on the part of a president who has never ceded anything, could only signify two things: either he was trying to buy some time, making promesses that he could deny once calm returned, in which case he was not credible and the fight must continue. Or else it meant that he had become weakened to the point of voluntarily ceding on these important points, in which case all it would take would be to keep the movement going a little longer to make him lose his nerve. and that's exactly what happened.

After asking Harrath to describe the social makeup of the protest movement, the interviewer next asks about Islamism:

Où sont passés les Islamistes ?
Le régime tunisien a pris soin de museler les islamistes et de les écarter : petite parenthèse, c’est tout de même une sacrée ironie du sort que celui-là même qui a combattu ces islamistes se retrouve aujourd’hui réfugié au pays du wahhabisme, la tendance la plus rigoriste de l’islam dont s’inspirent tous les mouvements islamistes du monde…Je crois qu’avec cette révolte tunisienne, les islamistes (pas seulement tunisiens, mais partout) ont perdu définitivement ce qui les faisait prospérer jusqu’à maintenant : ils se sont en effet toujours posés en champion de la contestation, cherchant à soulever les masses contre les régimes en place corrompus et vendus à l’Occident impie. Le premier moteur des islamistes, c’est la frustration et la colère de la rue arabe. Aujourd’hui, les Tunisiens ont montré que la révolution pouvait se faire sans eux. Ils ont ravi aux islamistes leur seul programme, leur seule idée : la révolution. Et pour ça, merci aux Tunisiens.

What's happened to the islamists?

The Tunisian regime took care to muzzle the islamists and to distance them [presumably from social and political enfranchisement --me]; To make a quick aside, it's a real irony that the very same man who fought these islamists today finds himself taking refuge in the land of Wahhabism, the strictest strain of Islam that inspires all the islamist movements of the world...
I think that with this Tunisian revolt, the islamists (not just the Tunisian ones, but everywhere) have definitively lost that which allowed them to flourish until now: they have always positioned themselves as the champion of protest, seeking to make the masses rise up against the corrupt regimes [which they view] as having sold out to a godless West. The islamists' primary motor is the frustration and anger of the Arab street. Today, the Tunisians have shown that revolution can take place without them. They have snatched from the islamists their sole programme, their sole idea: revolution. And for that, thank you to the Tunisians.

Finally:

Fera-t-il tâche d'huile au Maghreb ? Et au delà ? Là où le mouvement a commencé à faire des ému[et]es, c’est surtout en Algérie : au Maroc, les événements tunisiens ne sont pas vraiment couverts, de peur de susciter des manifestations de soutien qui pourraient dégénérer. En Algérie en revanche, on a vu des jeunes descendre aussi dans la rue, mais sans que cela ne prenne l’ampleur tunisienne. En Egypte, mais surtout en Jordanie, où de nombreux manifestants défilent, les choses risquent en revanche de se corser. Je ne suis pas sûre que cela aille aussi loin que pour la Tunisie, mais deux choses importantes sont à noter. D’une part, il est fort probable que les dirigeants du monde arabe lâchent un peu de lest sur certaines questions pour éviter tout conflit : Moubarak par exemple pourrait y réfléchir à deux fois maintenant avant de proposer son fils comme candidat à sa succession, d’autant qu’il sait très bien que l’armée ne l’accepterait pas. Auquel cas, si l’armée et le peuple se retournent contre lui, c’en est fini de son régime. Ensuite, je crois que la rue arabe a vécu par procuration ce dont elle a toujours rêvé : grâce aux Tunisiens, elle a retrouvé une fierté et une dignité qu’elle n’avait plus connu depuis les guerres pour les indépendances. ...Pour la première fois, ce monde arabe retrouve une légitimité, une image positive. Quelque part il entre de nouveau dans l’histoire. Et ce n’est pas rien.

Will this spread across the Maghreb? And beyond?

Algeria is above all where the movement has started to cause riots; in Morocco, the Tunisian events aren't really being covered, out of fear that support protests might degenerate. In Algeria by contrast, we have seen young people coming into the streets, but without it taking on the same scale as in Tunisia. In Egypt, and above all in Jordan, however, where numerous protestors are marching, things do risk becoming more serious. I'm not sure that it will go as far as in Tunisia, but there are two important points worth making. For the first part, it is very likely that the leaders of the Arab world may make a few concessions on certain questions to avoid any conflict: Mubarak, for example, might think twice now before proposing his son as a candidate for his succession, particularly since he knows quite well that the army will not accept him. In which case, if the army and the people turn against him, his regime will be finished. Nest, I believe the Arab street is living by proxy what it has always dreamed of: thanks to the Tunisians, it has regained a pride and dignity that it has not known since the wars of independence.... For the first time, the Arab world has regained a legitimacy, a positive image.In some way it is entering into history anew. And that's not nothing.

For the full interview from TV5 Monde, check out the original article in French.

Congratulations, Tunisia

"[T]he end of the Ben Ali era marks a rare case of an Arab leader brought down by popular revolt. It will alarm the region's autocratic leaders but give hope to younger people that change is possible." - la une of the Financial Times this morning.

From La Liberation

We've spent the entire evening and morning at our house following reports of the eloquently named Jasmine Revolution in Tunisia. The courage and determination of the Tunisian people is only to be saluted and I truly hope that it will serve as a catalyst for reform throughout the region. There is much still to be done however, and I hope Tunisia's citizens will be able to remove the barnacles and parasites of a corrupt and decrepit political system from their current positions and move forward with a democratic process. 

Instead of being upheld as a model of "stability and moderation" as it existed under Ben Ali's repression, I hope Tunisia will emerge as a true example of a functioning democracy and society in the Arab region, forged by its own people and not from the decrees and manoeuverings of power shifting from colonizers to dictatorial strongmen. That will be Tunisia's greatest achievement, and one I truly hope it can achieve.

The common theme of editorials around the world seems to be precisely the sense of hope that the Tunisian revolution is spreading among citizens throughout the region, as well as a message to Arab leaders that they may be next. Two of the best I've seen so far is from Anthony Shadid at the NYT and from Ian Black of the Guardian.

The latter cites an Egyptian tweeter who writes: "Every Arab leader is watching Tunisia in fear. Every Arab citizen is watching Tunisia in hope and solidarity." It's not just Arabs, my friend.

Here are some of the best news stories and photo essays I've seen lately:

Photo essay from the New York Times (above) and another from La Liberation

As of publishing this, I did a google search in French & English on Morocco's and Algeria's (official) reaction to the events in Tunisia: Nothing. Walou. Rien. (We did hear coverage of it on Medi1, and television channel 2M showed some footage from the streets -- but the lack of any images of rioting, protests and police/citizen confrontations were notably missing.)

The beloved French news puppets, Les Guignols de l'info, however, did offer up a light-hearted critique by staging an interview a duo with Algerian president Bouteflika and Tunisia's Ben Ali in their usual manner of wry buffoonery:



La Liberation, meanwhile, promptly published a summary of official pronouncements on the Jasmine Revolution from countries throughout the region. Even Hamas (well, of course Hamas) had already thrown in its two cents. Same for Qaddhafi, though he's always quick to take to the mic. And who isn't listed? Algeria and Morocco.

Al Jazeera English is running a detailed timeline of events in Tunisia starting with Mohammad Bouazizi's auto-immolation, and is still updating regularly.

Jeune Afrique posted an article, perhaps one of the first of many more to explore whatever role political Islam may play in the secular country's future, citing the proclaimed return of exiled islamist political leader, Rached Ghannouchi, to his homeland, where he claims he wishes "to take part in the national coalition government being prepared in Tunisia. He is above all surprised that no one has already asked him to participate."

Special mention goes to Global Voices Online who've been following Tunisia for years and have covered the latest events in detail with unique information from citizen bloggers. Bravo, guys.

Fashion Friday: Stereo.Type Designs

Recently came across this incredible bilingual (Arabic/English) collabo between NY & Dubai designers in the form of typographical jewelry created by Ebon Heath and Mona Ibrahim.

'Question & Answer earring'

Just a few of their Arabic designs, for more, check out their sites above.

Fashion Friday: Casa Street Style

Do you spend more than a little bit of time checking out the latest international street style blogs to find out what's the latest from Amsterdam, Tokyo, Rio or Saskatchawan? Well now you can add Casablanca to your it-list.

Joseph Ouechen, the blogger behind You*Are*The*Style dishes all the latest on Moroccan street trends, contemporary high fashion, Casablanca Fashion Week, and Moroccan inspiration in major international brands (hellloooo YSL...)

Joseph has an eye for kicks and those little elements that add that little Moroccan vibe to international chic.

All photos courtesy You*Are*The*Style.

Modern Maison in Marrakesh

Check out this New York Times style shoot of the modern Marrakesh home of jewelry designer Stéphanie Giribone and husband Mohamed Zefifene (who designed that fire place!). Love the built-in shelves.

It's an cool mix of mod style and more typical Moroccan home design.

Happy New Year: Dawn in Granada

Welcome to a new year, everyone. Sunshine burst through our blanket of grey on the first day of the year, which I hope will be a promising sign for 2011.

I'd planned to start this year off with a different post, but as I sat nursing a strong cup of coffee and listening to the morning news before returning to work after a long holiday, my ear caught this short NPR piece on Camaron de la Isla, one of the most distinctive voices in flamenco singing. As I sat enraptured by the sounds, I recalled both the recent passing of another flamenco legend, Enrique Morente, as well as an excellent documentary I saw a few years ago, Dawn in Granada.

It's a story of tradition and legacy passed from one generation of brothers to their daughters. Each father instructs his daughter in his prospective art,dance or music, and the filial and fraternal intimacy, the pride and stress of high expectations in such a creative family are touching and intriguing. Both are well worth a watch.